Koh Samui: The Coconut Island That Became a Resort

Koh Samui is Thailand's third-largest island, 247 km² in the Gulf of Thailand, 700 km south of Bangkok, 80 km east of Surat Thani. It was a coconut plantation in the 1970s (the "coconut island" name comes from the 3.5 million coconut palms that were the original export), and became one of the first Thai beach destinations in the 1980s.

The island is fully developed — the ring road is paved, the beach resorts cover the north and east coasts, the international airports, the hospitals, the shopping malls. It is the most "polished" of the Thai islands. The good news: the infrastructure is the best of the Thai islands. The bad news: the authenticity is the most eroded of the Thai islands.

What to do

The beaches

Koh Samui has 40+ beaches. The famous ones:

Chaweng: The main beach, the longest, the most developed, the most touristy, the most night-life (the Green Mango club, the Ark Bar). The package-tour crowd and the young backpacking crowd.
Lamai: The second-largest, the slightly more relaxed, the family-friendly. The Hin Ta + Hin Yai (the grandmother and grandfather rocks) are the most-photographed.
Bophut (Fisherman's Village): The old fishing village, the most atmospheric, the Friday Walking Street. The boutique hotels, the beach restaurants.
Maenam: The quieter, the family-friendly, the backpacker end. The W Retreat, the mid-range hotels.
Choeng Mon: The small, the quiet, the high-end. The Six Senses, the boutique resorts.
Big Buddha Beach (Bang Rak): The view of the Big Buddha (the 12-m golden statue on the small island).

The day trips

Ang Thong Marine Park: The 40-island archipelago 30 km west, the most beautiful day trip from Samui. The Emerald Lake (the closed lagoon on top of the island, the climb is hard), the snorkeling, the kayak. $50-80 per person.
Koh Phangan: The island 15 km north, the Full Moon Party (the world-famous, on the night of every full moon), the quieter half-moon parties. The boat from Bophut is 30 minutes.
Koh Tao: The diving island 70 km north, the cheapest place in the world to get a PADI certification. The day trip is rushed; the overnight is the way.

The wellness

Koh Samui is the wellness capital of the Thai islands. The most famous: Kamalaya (the integrative wellness resort, the most-respected), the Four Seasons, the Six Senses (wellness pioneer), the Santiburi. Yoga retreats, detox programs, meditation retreats, fitness boot camps, weight loss programs, traditional medicine. The most-respected in Asia outside of Bali.

The food

The Samui food scene is the most international in the Thai islands. The seafood is excellent (the night fish market in Bophut is the most famous), the Thai food is good (less authentic than Bangkok, but better than Phuket), the international food scene is mature. The most famous restaurants: Dara (Samui fish market), The Cliff, Tree Tops (the dining in the trees), the Fisherman's Village restaurants.

When to go

February to September: The best months on the Gulf coast. Dry, calm, 25-32°C. The peak season is December-March, the lowest season is October-November (the worst of the Gulf monsoon).

How long to stay

4-5 days. 1-2 days for the beaches, 1 day for Ang Thong, 1 day for Koh Phangan, 1 day for the wellness or the diving.

How to get there

From Bangkok: 1-hour flight to Samui Airport ($80-150), then 15-30 minutes to the main beaches. The Bangkok Airways monopoly (they own the airport) keeps the prices high.

From Surat Thani: The ferry from the mainland, 2-3 hours, $20-30. The cheaper option from Bangkok.

Where to stay

Chaweng: The most developed, the most central, the most night-life.

Lamai: The slightly more relaxed, the family-friendly.

Bophut (Fisherman's Village): The most atmospheric, the boutique, the Friday Walking Street.

Choeng Mon: The most exclusive, the most beautiful, the most expensive.

Maenam: The most laid-back, the most value, the backpacker end.

Cost (4-5 days, per person, 2 sharing, mid-range)

Accommodation: $60-300/night × 4 = $240-1,200
Food: $20-50/day = $80-200
Activities (boat trips, wellness, diving): $100-400
Transport: $30-60
Total: $450-1,860