Koh Tao: The Tiny Island That Became the World's Cheapest Place to Learn to Dive

Koh Tao is the smallest of the three main Gulf islands, 21 km², 70 km north of Koh Samui, 45 km north of Koh Phangan. The name means "Turtle Island" (the sea turtles nest on the beaches), and the population is 1,500 residents + 5,000-7,000 diving students at any given moment.

The island became a backpacker destination in the 1980s, then a diving destination in the 1990s, then the world's cheapest place to get a PADI certification in the 2000s. Today there are 50+ dive schools, the most concentrated in the world, and the 4-day Open Water course is the cheapest you can find anywhere ($250-350, all-in). The result: the average age is mid-20s, the atmosphere is backpacker-diver, and the social scene is the most international in the Thai islands.

What to do

The diving

The headline. The best dive sites:

Chumphon Pinnacle: The most famous, 36 m deep pinnacle, the visibility is 15-30 m, the pelagic fish (barracuda, trevally, occasional whale shark). One of the best dives in Thailand.
Sail Rock: The pinnacle between Koh Tao and Koh Phangan, the most consistent dive site in the Gulf, the whale sharks are sometimes here.
Shark Island: The small island in the south, the granite boulders, the reef sharks (they're not dangerous), the swim-throughs.
HTMS Sattakut Wreck: A former Thai Navy warship sunk in 2011, the most-photographed wreck in the Gulf.
Japanese Gardens: The shallow dive, the coral formations, the most popular with beginners.

The PADI Open Water course is 4 days, $250-350, includes all gear, instruction, and 4 open water dives. The Advanced Open Water is 2-3 days, $200-250. The Rescue Diver is 4 days, $400-500. The Divemaster is 6-8 weeks, $1,000-1,500.

The non-diving

Sairee Beach: The main beach, the longest, the most social. The beach bars, the fire shows, the backpacker crowd.
Chalok Baan Kao Bay: The quieter beach, the family-friendly, the more authentic.
Mango Bay: The small beach on the north, the snorkeling, the most beautiful.
John-Suwan Viewpoint: The 30-minute hike, the most-photographed view of the island.
Freedom Beach: The small beach on the east, the most remote, the most beautiful.

The viewpoints

The island is small and the trails are easy. The main viewpoints: John-Suwan (the most famous), the Fraggle Rock, the Two View, the Lighthouse (the sunset one).

When to go

March to September: The best months on the Gulf coast. Calm water, good visibility, dry weather. The peak diving season is June-August (the best visibility).

October to December: The worst. The Gulf monsoon, the boats don't run, the visibility drops. Some dive schools close.

January to February: Improving but still variable.

How long to stay

4 days for the Open Water course. 1 week for Open Water + Advanced. 2-3 weeks for Open Water + Advanced + a few fun dives. 1-2 months for the Divemaster.

How to get there

From Koh Samui: 2.5 hours by boat ($20-30), 1-2 boats daily. The most direct.

From Koh Phangan: 1.5 hours by boat ($10-15), 3-4 boats daily. The most popular route.

From Chumphon (the mainland): 1.5 hours by boat ($15-20), 1-2 boats daily. The cheapest from Bangkok.

Where to stay

Sairee Beach: The most central, the most social, the dive school hub. The backpacker hotels, the mid-range bungalows.

Mae Haad (the pier): The most practical, the most cheap, the most backpacker. The pier for the boats from Samui and Phangan.

Chalok Baan Kao Bay: The quieter, the family-friendly, the diving school center (Big Blue, Crystal). The mid-range bungalows.

Cost (4-7 days, per person, 2 sharing, backpacker)

Accommodation: $10-30/night × 5 = $50-150
Food: $5-10/day = $25-50
Open Water course: $250-350
Boat from Samui/Phangan: $10-30
Total: $335-580