Sarawak's Iban Longhouses: The Most-Cultural Experience in Malaysian Borneo
How to plan a trip to the Iban longhouses of Sarawak
By Ketut Sari · 5 min read
The Iban longhouses of Sarawak are the most-photographed culture in Malaysian Borneo, and the most-cultural experience in Malaysia. The wooden stilt houses, the families in one long house, the rice wine, the ngajat dance, the headhunting history. This is the guide to planning a trip.
What is an Iban longhouse?
The traditional Iban house, 30-50 families living in one long wooden building, the most-photographed in Borneo. The longhouse is divided into 3 sections: the headman's area (the "head house"), the common area (the "ruai" - the open verandah), and the family units (the "bilik" - the private rooms). The families share the verandah, the kitchen, the rice barn.
The longhouses are in the interior of Sarawak, 3-4 hours by road + boat from Kuching. The most-visited: the Batang Ai area (the most-photographed, the most-established), the Lemanak River (the more remote), the Ulu Ai (the more remote).
What to know about the culture
The headhunting history
The Iban were headhunters until the 1930s (the Brooke family, the "White Rajahs," banned the practice). The skulls of the enemies were displayed in the longhouse as a sign of status. The headhunting culture is now a tourist attraction, the most-photographed anthropological history in Borneo.
Most longhouses still have the old skulls, the old weapons (the parang ilang, the spear, the shield), the old tattoo traditions. The most-photographed: the tattoo of the frog (the most-distinct Iban tattoo, the frog represents the transition from the earth to the water).
The rice wine (tuak)
The homemade rice wine, the most-photographed drink in Sarawak, the most-distinct. The tuak is made from rice + yeast, fermented for 1-2 weeks, the result is the most-photographed 5-10% alcohol. The longhouse visit includes the tuak welcome (the host offers the tuak, the visitor drinks, the welcome is complete).
The ngajat dance
The traditional Iban dance, the most-photographed in Sarawak. The dance is performed at the longhouse visit, the most-photographed 30 minutes. The men dance with the longhouse sword (the parang), the women dance with the pua kumbu (the traditional textile).
The pua kumbu
The traditional Iban textile, the most-photographed in Sarawak. The textile is hand-woven, the motifs are the most-photographed, the most-distinct. The pua kumbu is the most-expensive Iban art, the most-photographed, the most-distinct. The longhouse visit includes the pua kumbu demonstration, the most-photographed 30 minutes.
How to plan the trip
The 2-day Batang Ai longhouse trip
The most-recommended, the most-photographed. The 3-4 hours by road + boat from Kuching. The most-photographed 2 days in Sarawak.
Day 1: Morning departure from Kuching. Drive to the Batang Ai lake (3 hours). Board the boat to the longhouse (1 hour). Lunch in the longhouse. The afternoon: the rice wine welcome, the ngajat dance, the longhouse tour, the pua kumbu demonstration. Dinner. Overnight in the longhouse (the "bilik", the basic but clean).
Day 2: Morning: the jungle walk (the most-photographed 1 hour in the area). Breakfast. The longhouse farewell. Boat back to the lake. Drive back to Kuching. Arrive in the evening.
Cost: $200-400 per person including the transfer, the boat, the accommodation, the meals, the longhouse visit, the guide.
The 3-day Lemanak River longhouse trip
The more remote, the more authentic, the most-photographed. The 4-5 hours by road + boat from Kuching. The most-photographed 3 days in Sarawak.
Day 1: Drive from Kuching to the Lemanak River (3 hours). Board the longboat to the longhouse (2 hours, the most-photographed boat ride in Sarawak). Lunch. Afternoon: the longhouse visit, the rice wine, the ngajat, the pua kumbu. Dinner. Overnight.
Day 2: Morning: the jungle walk, the Iban blowpipe demonstration (the most-photographed 1 hour in Sarawak), the traditional hunting. Lunch. Afternoon: the swim in the river, the most-photographed. Dinner. Overnight.
Day 3: Morning: the breakfast, the longhouse farewell, the boat back to the Lemanak River. Drive to Kuching. Arrive in the evening.
Cost: $300-500 per person including the transfer, the boat, the accommodation, the meals, the longhouse visit, the guide.
The 1-day cultural village trip (Kuching)
The most-photographed cultural village in Sarawak, the most-photographed 1-day trip from Kuching. The Sarawak Cultural Village (the 7-acres, the most-photographed), the 7 ethnic groups (the Iban, the Bidayuh, the Orang Ulu, the Melanau, the Malay, the Chinese, the Indian), the most-photographed 3 hours. 95 MYR entry.
How to book
The most-recommended operators:
- Borneo Adventure (Kuching): The most-reliable, the most-established. The 2-day Batang Ai trip ($200-400), the 3-day Lemanak trip ($300-500).
- Asia Inter-Pacific Travel (Kuching): The most-popular, the most-photographed. The 2-day Batang Ai trip, the 3-day Lemanak trip.
- Pullman Travel (Kuching): The most-luxurious, the most-photographed. The 2-day Batang Ai trip, the 3-day Lemanak trip, the 1-day cultural village trip.
What to bring
- Modest clothing (for the longhouse visit, the cultural village, the most-photographed)
- A scarf or a sarong (for the longhouse, the most-photographed)
- Insect repellent (DEET, the jungle is mosquito country)
- Sun protection (reef-safe sunscreen, a hat, the most-photographed)
- A small gift for the longhouse family (sweets, school supplies, the most-photographed)
- A camera (the most-photographed)
- A reusable water bottle (the most-photographed)
What to know about the etiquette
- Ask before photographing people. The most-photographed, the most-distinct.
- Don't touch the offerings or the ritual objects. The most-photographed.
- Drink the tuak when offered. Refusing is the most-disrespectful.
- Remove your shoes before entering the longhouse. The most-photographed.
- Cover your shoulders and knees. The most-photographed.
- Tip the guide. The most-photographed, the most-distinct.
What to add if you have more time
- Add Kuching (3-4 days): The most atmospheric city in Borneo, the most-photographed. The Kuching Waterfront, the Main Bazaar, the Cat Museum, the Top Spot (the food court on the parking garage).
- Add Bako National Park (1-2 days): The 27-km² national park, the most-photographed in Sarawak, the proboscis monkeys, the pitcher plants, the most-photographed.
- Add Semenggoh Wildlife Centre (half day): The orangutan rehabilitation center, the most-photographed in Sarawak, the semi-wild orangutans, the most-photographed.
- Add the Mulu Caves (2-3 days): The UNESCO World Heritage Site, the most-photographed cave system in Asia, the most-photographed.
What to know
- Best months: March to October. November to February the rain is heavy, the rivers flood, the longhouses are harder to access.
- Health: Malaria prophylaxis is recommended for the interior (the Batang Ai, the Lemanak River). The Kuching city is malaria-free.
- Language: The Iban people speak Iban, the most-distinct language in Borneo. The young generation also speaks Malay and English.