Singapore Food: The Practical Guide

Singapore's food culture is the most-distinct in Southeast Asia, the most-photographed, the most-refined, the most-affordable (for the Michelin-starred), and the most-culturally-diverse. This is a practical guide.

The 25 must-try dishes

Chicken rice

• Hainanese chicken rice: The national dish, the most-photographed. The Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice (the Maxwell Centre, the Michelin Bib Gourmand).
• Roast chicken rice: The Chinese-style version, the most-photographed in the Chinatown hawker centers.

Noodle dishes

• Laksa: The Peranakan spicy coconut-milk noodle soup. The 328 Katong Laksa (the Joo Chiat area).
• Char kway teow: The Penang-origin stir-fried flat rice noodles with prawns.
• Bak chor mee: The minced-pork noodle. The Tai Hwa (the Michelin star).
• Wantan mee: The noodle dish with dumplings. The Kam's Roast (the Michelin star).
• Hokkien mee: The prawn-based noodle. The Geylang Lor 29 Hokkien Mee (the Michelin Bib Gourmand).
• Fish ball noodles: The fish-ball noodle soup. The Miao Yi (the Michelin Bib Gourmand).
• Mee siam: The Malay-Thai noodle dish.
• Mee rebus: The Malay noodle dish.

Hawker classics

• Char siu rice: The Chinese BBQ pork over rice. The Kam's Roast (the Michelin star).
• Satay: The grilled meat skewers. The Lau Pa Sat satay street.
• Carrot cake (chai tow kway): The radish cake stir-fried with egg.
• Oyster omelet (or chien): The crispy oyster omelet.
• Bak kut teh: The pork-bone tea, the herbal broth. The Ng Ah Sio (the Michelin Bib Gourmand) or the Founder.

Indian

• Mutton biryani: The Indian rice dish. The Banana Leaf Apolo.
• Roti prata: The Indian-influenced flatbread. The Mr. & Mrs. Mohgan's.
• Thosai (dosa): The South Indian rice pancake. The Komala Vilas.
• Fish head curry: The Indian-Chinese fusion.
• Murtabak: The stuffed pancake. The Zam Zam.

Malay

• Nasi lemak: The coconut rice. The Ponggol Nasi Lemak.
• Nasi padang: The Indonesian-influenced rice with curries. The Warong Nasi Pariaman.

Peranakan

• Laksa lemak: The Peranakan spicy coconut-milk noodle soup. The 328 Katong Laksa.
• Ayam pongteh: The braised chicken. The Guan Hoe Soon.

Snacks and desserts

• Kaya toast: The Hainanese breakfast. The Ya Kun Kaya Toast or the Killiney Kopitiam.
• Chili crab: The Singapore-invented crab dish. The Jumbo Seafood, the No Signboard Seafood, the Long Beach.
• Black pepper crab: The Singapore-invented crab dish.
• Ice kachang: The shaved ice with syrup.
• Chendol: The coconut-milk dessert.

The 10 must-visit hawker centers

1. Maxwell Centre (Chinatown): The most-photographed in Singapore, the Tian Tian Hainanese Chicken Rice.
2. Lau Pa Sat (the CBD): The Victorian iron-cast architecture, the satay street at night.
3. Chinatown Complex Food Centre: The largest, the Michelin-starred Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice.
4. Newton Food Centre: The seafood-focused, the most-photographed for the night.
5. Tekka Centre (Little India): The Indian-focused, the most-distinct.
6. Old Airport Road Food Centre: The most-loved by the locals.
7. East Coast Lagoon Food Village: The seafood-focused, the most-photographed for the night.
8. Tiong Bahru Market: The most-photographed in the heritage zone.
9. Amoy Street Food Centre: The Michelin-starred A Noodle Story.
10. Golden Mile Food Centre: The most-photographed in the Beach Road area.

How to spot a great stall

• The queue of local people. The locals know the best stalls.
• The vendor is in the same spot every day. The spot is the brand.
• The Michelin Bib Gourmand or Michelin star. The most-photographed sign of quality.
• The turnover is high. The fresh food sells out and gets restocked.

How to order

• Look at what the locals are eating and order the same.
• For noodles, the vendor usually has a few types. Point at the one you want.
• For rice dishes, the "with rice" or "with extra vegetables" question is the main one.
• For drinks, the kopi (the local coffee) and the teh (the local tea) are the standards.

How to pay

• Most hawker food is S$3-8 per dish. The high-end is S$10-20. The Michelin-starred is S$2-15.
• Cash is preferred, but most stalls now accept PayNow, NETS, and credit cards.
• Tipping is not expected. The price is the price.

The "chope" system

The Singaporean tradition of reserving your seat with a tissue pack. Bring your own tissue pack, leave it on the table, and the seat is yours while you order. The "chope" is a Singaporean institution.

How to stay safe

• Singapore hawker food is the safest in the world. The stalls are licensed, the food is cooked in front of you, the turnover is fast.
• The tap water is safe to drink.

What to know about the etiquette

• The plastic chairs are the standard. Don't expect a chair. The food is the point.
• Return your tray and dishes to the cleaning station. The Singaporean standard.
• Use the right hand for the food (the left is considered unclean in the Malay-Muslim tradition).
• Don't point your finger at people. Use the whole hand, the chin, or the head.

What to skip

• The "Singapore food" at the airport: The most-overpriced in the city.
• The "fine dining" with the view of the Marina Bay Sands: The view is the point, the food is the secondary.
• The "all-inclusive buffet" at the hotels: The food sits out, the quality suffers.

What to know about the costs

Singapore food is the most-distinct in Southeast Asia. The hawker centers are the most-affordable (S$3-8 per dish), the Michelin-starred is the cheapest in the world (S$2-15 for the Hong Kong Soya Sauce Chicken Rice), the fine dining is the most-expensive in the region (S$100-500 per person).

Cost (1 day, per person, mid-range)

• Hawker center food: S$20-50 (3 meals)
• One fine dining: S$100-300
• Drinks: S$5-15
• Total: S$125-365 (US$90-270)